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The sharp smell of spicy pepper flakes hangs in the air at a kimchi factory in Incheon. Inside, salted cabbage soaks in sizeable industrial containers during the primary phase of a time-honored method.

"It's now considered a global dish from Korea, but this makes no sense," notes a factory owner. "Our domestic market has been seized."

The difficulty originates from a growing import-export gap. South Korea imports more kimchi than it exports, with lower-cost Chinese-produced products taking hold in the local market.

The Price Disparity

Kimchi from China is priced for restaurants at about 1,700 won per kilogram. However, Korean-made versions are priced at about 3,600 won per kilogram—over twice the price.

From January to October this year, the value of imports stood at $159 million, predominantly from China, while exports were valued at $137 million.

More Than Just Cabbage

This fermented dish is a staple of culinary tradition on the peninsula. The term encompasses much more than the fiery napa cabbage most familiar to global audiences.

• There are more than 150 documented varieties, made with daikon, cucumbers, scallions and other vegetables.
• They are flavored with blends of chilli powder, garlic, ginger and jeotgal.
• The natural fermentation produces health-promoting probiotics, bolstering its status as a nutritious food.

Shifting Habits

Traditionally, families prepared large quantities together during kimjang, a tradition designated by UNESCO. However, consumption patterns are changing.

One-person homes have increased dramatically since 2000, now representing more than 36% of all households. Consequently, a declining number make kimchi at home.

Nowadays, it is more often eaten pre-packaged or in restaurants, where it is provided complimentary with every meal. Asking payment for such a basic side dish would be unthinkable.

A Difficult Business

"If you manage to break even and stay afloat, that’s already fortunate," says one manufacturer. "In our industry over the past decade, we haven’t been able to invest in facilities."

‘A Food That Contains Our Soul’

Market forces mean that cost, rather than provenance or production technique, is now the decisive factor.

One factory owner who has operated a business for 29 years canceled plans for expansion years ago as foreign kimchi became popular. "Is it right to use imported kimchi when this is a food that contains our people’s soul?" he says. "It's deeply saddening."

Additional Challenges

The pressures are compounded by the climate crisis, which is harming cabbage farming. Growing in summer has become increasingly difficult in usual mountainous regions, causing wholesale cabbage prices to sometimes more than double from one year to the next.

Government agencies and producers are working on hardier cabbage types and improved storage systems, but industry groups doubt whether such measures can counteract the pressures.

Approximately three-quarters of the nation's kimchi manufacturers are very small enterprises with a handful of employees, relying on handcrafted techniques that struggle to compete with industrial-scale production in China.

Seeking Solutions

The industry is attempting to adapt, albeit with few options.

• A subsidy program offers restaurants a financial incentive to switch back to Korean-made kimchi.
• There are calls for stricter checks of declared import prices for kimchi.
• Government measures include origin labeling programs for restaurants, agricultural support for cabbage growers, and studies to lengthen kimchi’s shelf life for export.

A Matter of Taste

In the end, many believe that quality remains the local industry's best asset.

"Our kimchi has a distinct flavor," says an expert. "It is impossible to copy."